![]() (2) pass, (4) pass, or (6) pass are among the most common. That fluid will ultimately end up back at the same end. Lastly, every bundle has a number of passes that create fluid which runs through the tubes.The bolts are responsible for connecting the head and the tube bundle to the shell, so they all must match up exactly! But, please also keep in mind that it is possible to have no bolts in the tubesheet as the bolts then bypass around the tubesheet. ![]() ![]() Doing this basically determines the bolt hole pattern. Next, you want to determine the number of bolt holes, as well as the center to center distance of the bolt holes.¾”, 1”, 1 ½” are examples that you’re likely to see. First, measure the thickness of the tubesheet. The only real way to not get the bundle correct is if the tubesheet is not duplicated correctly.If you are unsure which is which, tube supports run the complete circumference of the bundle, while baffles are generally staggered and look to cover only a portion of the tubes. While tube supports only serve to keep the bundle together, baffles actually direct the fluid on the shell side to go back & forth across the bundle. You also want to make sure to count the tube supports or baffles on the length of the shell.If you are not sure of the # of tubes, contact us, and Capital Coil can tell you the maximum number. Including tube supports or baffles, the number of tubes in the bundle should always be the maximum number that you can fit inside the shell.049” wall thickness, but you can easily upgrade if needed. Thicker tubes will last longer, but will obviously be more expensive. Next, decide on the tube thickness that you need.While the vast majority of bundles have ¾” OD tubes, it is possible to have ½” OD, 5/8” OD, or 1” OD. The next step is to determine the size of the tubes in the bundle.Keep in mind that the bundle’s OAL will always be several inches shorter than the shell’s OAL. Simply slide the bundle out and measure the overall length (including the tubesheet). Replacing a bundle is pretty straightforward and easy.One very important question to ask is which types of tube bundles are replaceable? “U” tube bundles and straight tube bundles with “floating tube sheets” can be replaced, while fixed tube sheet bundles must be re-tubed rather than replaced.The idea here is to slide the old bundle out and replace it with a new bundle, using the least amount of labor possible. However, the copper tube bundles located inside will often need to be replaced. The shell for this type of shell & tube exchanger can/will last just about forever.Floating tube heat exchangers where one tube sheet is fixed and the other floats axially.Fixed tube heat exchangers where the tube sheet are welded to the shell and stationary and the bundle is not removable.“U” Tube heat exchangers where it is possible to remove the entire bundle.There are basically three kinds of shell and tube heat exchangers:
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